Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex

The Eastern Forest Complex

A Single Forest, Five Protected Areas

A bird’s eye view of the marvelous dipterocarp forest structure of Khao Yai National Park

I will never forget one of my earliest flights to Thailand, while on approach to Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport, we flew over at relatively low elevation a massive expanse of unbroken forest. I knew we were mere minutes away from touching down in the megacity of Bangkok and I was puzzled as to what could possibly be this great expanse of what I wrongly assumed of tropical rain forest. I was spellbound and couldn’t take my eyes off this fantastic natural spectacle. Now by this point in my life, I’d already visited the Amazon and Congo so I knew what a mega-forest looked like but quite honestly I was like so many ill-informed tourists and was under the impression that Thailand really had no significant nature to speak of. Keep in mind this was nearly forty years ago and I was quite ignorant of this part of the world.

This great forested area never left my mind during my first few weeks in Thailand in those early days. When I finally had the chance, I managed to visit a special place called Khao Yai National Park. I was blown away. My first exposure to Southeast Asian wilderness was here. I spent several days exploring every nook of this park and was treated to over 20 species of mammals and so many birds (most of which I could not identify). The insects and reptiles were also plentiful. Since this initial taste of this special place, I have now visited Khao Yai several dozen times. During these visits, I routinely expanded my explorations to include all of the wild areas of what is affectionately called, the “Eastern Forest Complex”, or more formally known as Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex (DPKY).

I will now combine my expeditions to DPKY in this blog and present everything in a simple natural history-style article that highlights the various biotic and abiotic features of the complex as well as some of the human factors and history. I will include images that were exclusively taken in the DPKY to highlight some of the biotic marvels of the region.

Map of the Dong Phayayen - Khao Yai Forest Complex (Source)

Stretching ~230 km along the Dong Phaya Yen and Sankamphaeng ranges of eastern Thailand, the Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex (DPKY) unites five protected areas—Khao Yai, Thap Lan, Pang Sida, Ta Phraya National Parks and Dong Yai Wildlife Sanctuary—into a 615,500‑ha UNESCO World Heritage landscape recognized in 2005 for exceptional biodiversity and intact tropical monsoon forests. This serial site conserves more than 800 faunal species (including 112 mammals and 392 birds) and forms the eastern seaboard’s largest remaining block of forest, buffering the Korat Plateau from lowlands toward Cambodia. [whc.unesco.org], [en.wikipedia.org] [whc.unesco.org], [Dong Phaya...Datasheet]

Geography and Geology
While exploring Khao Yai and other units of DPKY, geology may not be on the top of your list. The entire area is so beautifully covered with forest systems and grasslands that do a great job of hiding the underlying geology. However when you finally see an outcropping, be it on the side of a large hill or exposed by the erosive forces of one of the region’s spectacular waterfalls, one can’t help but be intrigued with the forces that formed this region.

The general geology of DPKY can be summarized as follows: Topography rises from ~100 to >1,300 m, with cuestas (a ridge or hill with a gentle, long slope on one side (dip slope) and a steep, abrupt escarpment on the other) and escarpments cut into the Early Cretaceous Korat Group—continental red‑bed sandstones and mudstones—locally draped over older volcanic (pyroclastic) rocks exposed at major waterfalls such as Haew Suwat and Haew Narok in Khao Yai. Sedimentology and paleosols of these formations reveal meandering to anastomosing river systems laid down under semi‑arid to sub‑humid climates—an ancient river archive still shaping today’s cliffs, gorges, and soils.

The eastern borders of DPKY give way to the massive Korat Plateau. The Khorat Plateau is a large, shallow, crescent-shaped basin covering about 50,000 km² in northeastern Thailand and parts of Laos, characterized by a thick sequence of mostly Mesozoic-aged non-marine (terrestrial) sedimentary rocks, with a surface topography that tilts to the southeast. The region is bordered by the Mekong River to the north and east, the Phetchabun and Dong Phaya Yen Mountains to the west, and the Dângrêk Mountains to the south. The geology is primarily defined by the Korat Group and the overlying Maha Sarakham Formation, with a total sedimentary sequence exceeding 5,000 meters in thicknes. [en.wikipedia.org], [khaoyainat...alpark.com] [academia.edu]

Biomes of the DPKY
Because the complex spans elevation and rain‑shadow effects, it stacks dry evergreen, moist evergreen (“tropical rainforest”), mixed deciduous, deciduous dipterocarp, lower montane evergreen, and patchy grasslands—a complete eastern‑Thailand rainforest gradient in one connected block. In Khao Yai alone, dry/moist evergreen forests dominate mid‑elevations while hill evergreen occupies the highest ridges, a pattern echoed south‑east into Thap Lan and Pang Sida where lowland dipterocarp and mixed deciduous forests broaden the mosaic. [Dong Phaya...Datasheet], [khaoyainat...alpark.com][datazone.b...rdlife.org], [aseanbiodi...ersity.org]

Flora
Canopies are built by Dipterocarpaceae—notably Dipterocarpus alatus, D. turbinatus, Shorea roxburghii, Hopea odorata and Hopea ferrea—with emergents like Tetrameles nudiflora and Pterocymbium javanicum and palms including Areca triandra and fan‑palmCorypha lecomtei. At higher, cooler ridges, montane elements appear: Podocarpus neriifolius, Nageia wallichiana, Fagaceae (e.g., Lithocarpus, Castanopsis) and localized Reevesia pubescens var. siamensis. Regionally, Thai dipterocarps follow the classic Smitinand distribution pattern—evergreen taxa widespread in gallery and hill forests, with only a handful of xerophytic species forming dry dipterocarp on ridges and plateaus. [khaoyainat...alpark.com][thesiamsociety.org]

Signature plants
Among headline species is agarwood (Aquilaria crassna, CR in Thailand), whose resinous heartwood has long tempted illegal harvest; it occurs patchily in evergreen valleys and along streams across the complex. Rattans (Calamus viminalis), Schima wallichii, and magnolias (Magnolia baillonii) add to the structural and phenological diversity that underpins multi‑layered bird and primate communities. [khaoyainat...alpark.com] [Vegetation Map & Paper for Khao Yai]

The images below highlight some of the biomes, plant communities and easy to see plants in the DPKY.

Mammals
My main objective for visiting Khao Yai and other units of the DPKY is of course to see some of Southeast Asia’s amazing fauna as well as get some fresh air and some “in-nature-time”. I’ve had very good luck with spotting many of the mammal species that this part of the world is famous for. The gallery below highlights some of the mammal species I’ve been fortunate to document over the years of visiting the area. In keeping with the theme of my entire website, the gallery is not meant to be a show of my best photographic work, rather it is a series of images that were actually taken inside the DPKY itself with one exception noted below.

The complex supports a regionally important population of Asian elephants (Elephas maximus indicus), with regular viewing in Khao Yai’s grasslands and along salt licks, and roaming herds in Thap Lan and Pang Sida that depend on seasonal fruiting and grass flushes. Arboreal primate soundscapes come from white‑handed gibbon (Hylobates lar) and pileated gibbon (H. pileatus), whose range overlap here is a World Heritage value; carnivores include dhole (Cuon alpinus), clouded leopard (Neofelis nebulosa), and both sun (Helarctos malayanus) and Asiatic black bears (Ursus thibetanus). Over the years I have seen all of these species and many more. I hope I have many more years of viewing to look forward to! [khaoyainat...alpark.com], [aseanbiodi...ersity.org][whc.unesco.org], [datazone.b...rdlife.org]

Avifauna
As one might imagine, the DPKY is a birder’s paradise. Now I am not a birder by any stretch but that has not stopped me from marveling at the incredible diversity of avifauna in the complex. Without a doubt the Great Hornbills are the star of the show and this can be demonstrated by watching the large numbers of tourists who will stop and view them whenever they are spotted, which is commonly. With a bit of time and effort, it would be relatively easy to tick a species list approaching 100 species in a few days. Pro-birders could of course do much better.

Over 300–400 bird species are recorded across the complex, with Khao Yai alone hosting four hornbills—Oriental pied (Anthracoceros albirostris), Great (Buceros bicornis), Wreathed (Rhyticeros undulatus), Austen’s Brown (Anorrhinus austeni)—and ground celebrities such as Siamese Fireback (Lophura diardi) and Silver Pheasant (L. nycthemera). Pang Sida’s mixed lowland–hill forests and old orchards are migration way stations for Boadbills and Pittas, while open Nong Phak Chi‑type grasslands punch above their weight for raptors and edge specialists. [khaoyainat...alpark.com], [thaibirding.com][khaoyainat...alpark.com], [datazone.b...rdlife.org]

Herpetofauna
From king cobra (Ophiophagus hannah) to water monitors (Varanus salvator), the reptile guild spans apex predators to semi‑aquatic scavengers, while amphibians include the many species of frogs in tropical rain forests and in moist hill forests. Other key reptiles include the Chinese water dragon, diverse vipers, and all three of Thailand's python species. Now I am horrible at identifying herps so do please let me know if you find errors. [thaination...lparks.com], [datazone.b...rdlife.org][datazone.b...rdlife.org]

Invertebrate Fauna

Issues Facing the DPKY‍ ‍
Khao Yai (est. 1962) led Thailand’s modern conservation era; the later designation of Thap Lan (1981), Pang Sida (1982), and Ta Phraya (1996), plus Dong Yai Wildlife Sanctuary (1996), stitched a trans‑provincial forest together and earned World Heritage status in 2005. Yet, proximity to Bangkok and arterial highways created classic edge pressures—encroachment, illegal villas, roadkills, and demand for forest products—that still require constant management. [Dong Phaya...Datasheet][en.wikipedia.org], [en.wikipedia.org]

Khao Yai and Thap Lan National Parks, which form part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex, face severe environmental issues stemming from human encroachment, illegal resource extraction, and tourism pressure. These issues threaten the biodiversity of the park, including endangered species like tigers and elephants. 

Key environmental issues facing these parks include:

1. Illegal Encroachment and Land Use 

  • Illegal Resort Development: A major, long-standing issue is the construction of resorts and vacation homes inside the park boundaries, particularly in the area between Khao Yai and Thap Lan.

  • Agricultural Encroachment: Local villagers have converted parts of the forest into agricultural land, growing crops like tapioca, maize, and eucalyptus.

  • Land Title Disputes: There are ongoing disputes where agricultural reform land (Sor Por Kor) has overlapped with protected forest areas, leading to illegal land clearing and, in some cases, the transfer of land to ineligible parties. 

2. Illegal Logging and Poaching

  • "Bloodwood" Trade: Thap Lan is the epicenter of the "Rosewood Wars," where illegal loggers cut down valuable Siamese rosewood, which is highly prized and causes significant damage to the ecosystem.

  • Wildlife Poaching: Poachers hunt endangered wildlife, including tigers and elephants, in both parks. 

3. Human-Wildlife Conflict

  • Habitat Loss & Fragmentation: As the forest is cleared for agriculture and roads, animals lose their natural habitat.

  • Elephants Leaving the Park: Due to habitat loss, wild elephants frequently roam into surrounding farmlands, causing destruction and danger to local residents.

  • Dangerous Encounters: Increased tourism and human activity have led to dangerous interactions between tourists and wildlife, with reports of elephants being disturbed near camping grounds. 

4. Tourism and Infrastructure Impacts

Coyote dancers rocking Khao Yai NP somehow violates the prime directive of preservation of nature and the peaceful appreciation of it. The superintendent had a bit of explaining to do. (see article here)

  • Over-tourism and Waste: Khao Yai receives over a million visitors annually, leading to issues with excessive waste, litter, and noise pollution.

  • Road Mortality: Major roads running through the parks cause significant wildlife fatalities.

  • Infrastructure Projects: Proposed dam construction and highway expansion threaten to destroy over 10,000 rai of forest and fragment habitats. 

5. Other Environmental Threats

  • Invasive Species: Non-native plant species like Mimosa pigra and Chromolaena odorata have spread, overtaking natural food resources for wildlife.

  • Toxic Chemical Runoff: Pesticides and fertilizers from agricultural activities around the border flow into the park's water sources. 

 

The Rosewood Wars—and a Pivot to Patrol Tech
Between 2012–2015, the complex endured a violent Siamese rosewood (Dalbergia cochinchinensis) poaching crisis. A 2015 State‑of‑Conservation report documented 701 cases detected since Oct 2013, 473 arrests and 452.602 m³ of seized rosewood, while ranger casualties mounted in eastern parks. From 2016–2021, Thap Lan’s Global Park Defense program with WCS scaled SMART patrols and cellular trailcams, contributing to >600 rosewood‑related arrests and a measurable decline in incursions—evidence that technology, training and prosecution can change trajectories. [whc.unesco.org], [dialogue.earth] [globalcons...vation.org]

Wildlife Bridge connecting Thaplan and Khao Yai National Parks. Overall this has been considered a success allowing fauna to cross between the units and thereby reducing roadkill.

Corridors and Connectivity—Engineering for Wildlife
To mitigate fragmentation on Highway 304 between Thap Lan and Khao Yai, Thailand built a tunnel‑plus‑overpass “wildlife corridor” opened in 2019. Seven years of monitoring now show regular use by multiple species, biodiversity rising from 156 to 172 recorded species, and reduced wildlife–vehicle collisions—tangible gains for a road once flagged by UNESCO. [bangkokpost.com], [en.wikipedia.org]

Tigers and Prey—Quiet Recovery in a Connected Forest
The DPKY made global news in 2017 when camera traps confirmed the world’s second known breeding population of Indochinese tigers (Panthera tigris tigris) in the complex; authorities reported at least 15 individuals detected by 2022, signaling improving prey and security across connected parks. Continued control of snaring and expansion of patrol coverage remain essential to keep that upward curve. [en.wikipedia.org], [fairplanet.org][fairplanet.org]

Coexisting with Elephants—Keeping Herds Inside the Forest
Park managers are pairing grassland enrichment with supplementary water sources to reduce crop‑raiding and keep elephants within protected zones; camera traps in January 2026 filmed herds bathing at new waterholes on Khao Yai’s plateau—behavior that validates this approach and guides adaptive scaling to Thap Lan’s edge communities. [thethaiger.com], [aseannow.com]

Why this Complex Matters
As a unified landscape, the Eastern Forest Complex demonstrates how geology, monsoon climate, evergreen–deciduous gradients, and connectivity investments interact to sustain elephant herds, gibbon choruses, hornbill flyways and—critically—breeding tigers within a few hours of Bangkok. Its current trajectory—from rosewood crisis to patrol tech, from road barrier to wildlife overpass—offers one of Southeast Asia’s clearest case studies in adaptive conservation on a crowded frontier. [whc.unesco.org], [globalcons...vation.org], [bangkokpost.com], [en.wikipedia.org]

Protecting the Eastern Forest Complex (specifically often referring to the Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex) in Thailand is critical for maintaining biodiversity, supporting endangered species, providing essential ecosystem services, and preserving significant natural heritage. The complex is home to over 800 species of fauna, including 112 mammal species, 392 bird species, and 200 reptile and amphibian species. It provides a vital sanctuary for 19 vulnerable, 4 endangered, and 1 critically endangered species. It supports key populations of Indochinese tigers (confirming the world's second known breeding population in 2017), Asian elephants, leopard cats, and banteng. The area contains over 450 wild elephants, which have an annual population growth of 8.2%, the highest in the country. It is essential to maintain this habitat to reduce human-wildlife conflict and ensure their survival. It hosts the last substantial area of globally important tropical forest ecosystems of the Thailandian Monsoon Forest in the region. It also contains the world's largest remaining stands of Siamese rosewood. The high-rainfall forest acts as a vital watershed, draining into and feeding five of the country's major rivers: the Nakhon Nayok, Prachin Buri, Lamta Khong, Muak Lek, and Mun rivers. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (inscribed in 2005) and a WWF Global 200 Ecoregion, with Khao Yai being an ASEAN Heritage Park. The forest serves as a significant carbon sink, absorbing carbon and helping to mitigate climate change.

For me, I don’t need these reasons to protect a place like the DPKY. The peace it gives me when I visit, smell its smells, hear its sounds, see its wildlife and explore its trails is more than enough to convince me that humans cannot exist in any satisfying way without places like the DPKY. When I am unable to physically be there, the mere thought of it existing at all gives me solace. As our world becomes more and more destroyed, it is more important than ever to make sure these places have strong protection. One thing I have noticed in the past 40 years of visiting the DPKY, more and more local Thai have begun to come and experience their own natural heritage. While this presents its own set of problems, like the parks being loved to death, the fact that more and more Thai are loving this place and many others means they will be more likely to advocate for their protection. One can hope.

The below are images that show aspects of the DPKY not shown above. Enjoy.