
The Great Pouched Critter Safari of 2025
Segment #4: Northern Territory
Links to Other Segments and to Related Galleries
Expedition to Tasmania (Segment 1)
Expedition to South Australia (Segment 2)
Expedition to Queensland (Segment 3)
Expedition to Northern Territory (Segment 4)
Expedition to Western Australia (Segment 5)
Bird Species List and Bird Gallery Links for the Entire Expedition to Australia
Landscapes & Scenery of Northern Territory
Logistics for the Great Pouched Critter Safari of 2025
Master Species List for the Entire Expedition
Darwin to Fogg Dam & Leaning Tree Lagoon Nature Park
August 5
I got a late start from Darwin this day as East Coast Car Rental opens at 10AM! The one main complaint I have regarding East Coast is their hours of operation – very limited and inconvenient. Once I finally got my rental, I started the day with a visit to Leaning Tree Lagoon and Fogg Dam, both excellent wetland areas. The birding was good at both locations. I kept an eye out for Frilled Lizards and Gouldian Finches but I was not holding my breath for either. Fogg Dam had a lot more visitors compared to the way I saw the place thirty years ago. Then there was only a dirt track, no trails or information signs, loads of birds right up to the road. In fact I was the only person there in ‘96. Leaning Tree Lagoon was a bit more like I remember it back in ‘96. I was still the only person visiting. While I was not expecting any mammal sightings in these wetland locations, I did get some great bird action, mostly the normal common fauna one would expect in such a habitat in Australia. See the below gallery:
Brolga (Grus rubicunda) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Brolga (Grus rubicunda) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Royal Spoonbill (Platalea regia) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Royal Spoonbill (Platalea regia) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Pied Heron (Egretta picata) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Fogg Dam - Northern Territory
Brolga (Grus rubicunda) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Magpie Goose (Anseranas semipalmata) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Royal Spoonbill (Platalea regia) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Fogg Dam - Northern Territory
Eastern Great Egret (Subspecies Ardea alba modesta) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Eastern Great Egret (Subspecies Ardea alba modesta) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Plumed Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Plumed Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni) Fogg Dam Conservation Area - Northern Territory
Green Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus pulchellus) Leaning Tree Lagoon Nature Park
Green Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus pulchellus) Leaning Tree Lagoon Nature Park
"Radjah Shelduck (Tadorna radjah) at Leaning Tree Lagoon
Green Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus pulchellus) Leaning Tree Lagoon Nature Park
Radjah Shelduck (Tadorna radjah) & Australian Ibis (Threskiornis molucca) Leaning Tree Lagoon
Straw-necked Ibis (Threskiornis spinicollis) Leaning Tree Lagoon Northern Territory
White-necked Heron (Ardea pacifica) Anbangbang Billagong, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
White-necked Heron (Ardea pacifica) Anbangbang Billagong, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Jabiru
Little Reds in Jabiru by the thousands!
From there, I drove east toward Jabiru, entering Kakadu National Park. Jabiru has changed much since my last visit in 96. The town center is more developed and more of the roads are paved but it is still a dustly outback outpost of a town. There is a large resort now as well. In Jabiru I searched for Little Red Flying Foxes for quite some time. I was blown away with ho many colonies of Black Flying Fox there were in the town – virtually every stand of large trees had a few thousand Black Flying Foxes! It took me a few hours but I finally found a large colony of Little Reds near the football field on the east end of town. According to iNaturalist, the Little Reds are normally found near the park in the center of town but evidently the colonies are quite mobile. Finally I had wild images of all four Flying Fox species native to Australia. I drove the town both during the day and night hoping for some mammal action but aside from the Flying Foxes none was to be had. I walked the trail from Jabiru to the Kakadu Visitor Center (about 2 kms) at night hoping for some gliders….nope. In fact, my entire stay in the Northern Territory had much more bird activity than mammals. I did get a couple good scores though (more later).
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Red Flying-fox roosts were very different than the Black Flying Fox. Their equidistant spacing was different and one could tell the difference from a distance.
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territor
Whistling Kite (Haliastur sphenurus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Corella (Cacatua sanguinea) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Corella (Cacatua sanguinea) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Whistling Kite (Haliastur sphenurus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Corella (Cacatua sanguinea) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Brown Falcon (Falco berigora) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Whistling Kite (Haliastur sphenurus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Australian Raven (Corvus coronoides) Jabiru, Kakadu NP
Whistling Kite (Haliastur sphenurus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Little Corella (Cacatua sanguinea) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Australia’s Four Species of Flying Fox
Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Jabiru, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Spectacled Flying-fox (Pteropus conspicillatus) Yungaburra Peterson Creek - Queensland
Grey-headed flying foxes (Pteropus poliocephalus) Pottsville Environmental Park - New South Wales
Ubirr Rock Art Site & Bardedjilidji Trails at Kakadu National Park
Many say Thylacine but I am thinking Numbat
From Jabiru I made it up to the Ubirr Rock Art trails where I searched for Short-eared Rock Wallabies. No luck but it was still very hot. Was hoping for success when it cooled down a bit more. I enjoyed trekking the massive rocks look at the ancient rock art there. The state of preservation is extremely impressive. Ubirr rock art in Kakadu National Park, Australia, features ancient Aboriginal paintings depicting local flora, fauna, and spiritual beliefs. Key elements include "X-ray art" showing animal internal organs, paintings of creation ancestors like the Rainbow Serpent, and stories about traditional law and the environment. The rock art serves as a cultural record, explaining stories, illustrating ancestral beings, and providing insight into Aboriginal life and customs. Ages of the various paintings range from 40,000 to 6,000 years ago!
The late afternoon and all evening I trekked the Bardedjilidji Walk searching for and finding Short-eared Rock Wallabies and Rock Haunting Ringtail Possums. I got one skittish Rock Wallaby at dusk that bolted directly in to a cave at the base of a rock mountain – too fast for me to snap a pic. I eventually had a better view in the early morning of the next day, but sadly my camera decided to focus on a bush rather than the wallaby and he did not give me a second chance! And the evening trek afforded me awesome views of the Rock Possums, which were actually very high up on the rock face of one of the larger rock formations of the trail. There were many bats flying about but I was unable to identify any of them. I also got what I am pretty sure is a Common Wallaroo and another Agile Wallaby along the trail. Red-tailed Black Cockatoos were seen often along the trail as well. By the time I left, I trekked the 2km trail at least six times trying to score better pics of the fauna there. It never got boring either. The rock formations are absolutely spectacular, and the vegetation is interesting too. And thinking that humans have been walking these trails for at least 40,000 years was surreal.
Kakadu National Park boasts diverse habitats, including savanna woodlands (making up most of the park), monsoon forests, stone country with sandstone escarpments, and coastal areas like mangrove-lined tidal flats and estuaries. It also features significant wetlands with floodplains and freshwater billabongs that undergo dramatic seasonal changes. These varied ecosystems support a vast array of flora and fauna, making Kakadu a region of enormous biological diversity. For the next few days I was exploring one of the world’s greatest places. This was my second time visiting this reserve and I hope to return again someday.
Perfectly focused bush in front of the rare Eastern Short-eared Rock-Wallaby Petrogale brachyotis) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Sigh..... Hey I am posting this picture. Damn right I am!
Rock Ringtail Possum (Pseudochirops dahlii) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
I was surprised at how high up the rock face these two Rock Ringtail Possums (Pseudochirops dahlii) were on the Bardedjilidji Trail. Caught these around midnight.
They were very curious of me
Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike (Coracina novaehollandiae) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Bar-shouldered Dove (Geopelia humeralis) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus banksii) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP
Sulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP
Rainbow Bee-eater (Merops ornatus) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Rainbow Bee-eater (Merops ornatus) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Kapok or Cotton Tree (Cochlospermum fraseri) Ubirr Rock Art, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Flood Plains seen from the Ubirr Rock Art view point. In the northern section of Kakadu, this sort of biome/floral community dominates in all directions
Shelter at Ubirr
Sand Palm (Livistona humilis) Ubirr Rock Art, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Rock escarpements such as these have been occupied by humans for thousans of years.
Kapok or Cotton Tree (Cochlospermum fraseri) Ubirr Rock Art, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
To truly appreciate the rock art, knowing what the art means makes it more interesting.
Ubirr has rock art that ranges from 40,000 to 6000 years old!
I think this may be an example of the X-ray art
Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP
The rock formations on the Bardedjilidji Trails in Kakadu are spectacular
Screwpine (Pandanus tectorius) Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Bardedjilidji Trails, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Shelter and Rock Art
Anbangbang Rock Art & Shelter
After a nice sleep at the trails, I started my journey south toward Yellow Water. Before arriving there I stopped by Anbangbang Rock Shelter and Rock Art site hoping for more chances for the Rock Wallabies and the famed Black Wallaroo. I saw neither. More Red-tailed Black Cockatoos and awesome views were the main experiences there. Anbangbang Lagoon was also quite nice. I did some nice relaxed bird watching at the Anbangbang Lagoon nearby where I had a bit of lunch and had to fight off agressive Australian Ravens and a very bold Blue-winged Kookabura!
The rock art in this area is perhaps the most spectacular and famous of all the rock art locations in Australia. Anbangbang Gallery's rock art spans an enormous timeframe, with Aboriginal rock paintings produced as recently as 1963/64 and as early as 4,000–6,000 years ago, with occasional earlier use of the site. Located in Kakadu National Park at Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), the shelter contains a wide variety of art styles and subjects, including depictions of creation beings like the Lightning Man (Namarrgon), spirits, and European sailing ships. This is the area I spent time at in 1996, but I don’t remember any boardwalks or paved trails or signage at all. If someone were to choose one place to get a good feel of Australian rock art, Anbangbang is the place.
Australian Raven (Corvus coronoides) Anbangbang Billabong - Northern Territory
Australian Raven (Corvus coronoides) Anbangbang Billabong - Northern Territory
Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii) Anbangbang Billabong
Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii) Anbangbang Billabong
Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii) Anbangbang Billabong
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus banksii) Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery and Shelter, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus banksii) Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery and Shelter, Kakadu NP - Northern Territory
View of the vast Outback of Kakadu from Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Rental Car #4 in Northern Territory. Hyundai Tucson! I'd own this car!
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Kakadu National Park also has sandstone escarpment communities, also known as Southern Hills and Ridges.
Kakadu NP
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Anbangbang Rock Art Gallery & Shelter - Northern Territory
Leaning Tree Lagoon near Fogg Dam
Anbangbang Lagoon in Kakadu NP, Northern Territory
Yellow Water, Kakadu National Park
Yellow Water Billabong
I made it to Yellow Water campgrounds where I spent the night with plans on going on the Yellow Water sunrise cruise the following morning. The two hour cruise is absolutely awesome. Great views of so many birds and salt water crocodiles was simply phenomenal. The cruise now operates four to six boats with a couple dozen tourists on each. The ranger-led interpretation was done by a local aboriginal gentlemen who should absolute seek employment as a stand-up comedian. He was great. “Pretty much everything you see here will kill you”….
Yellow Water Billabong is a wetland habitat within Australia's Kakadu National Park and is known for its rich biodiversity, particularly its birdlife and crocodiles. This landlocked billabong features a water surface dotted with waterlilies, surrounded by paperbark forests, pandanus, and freshwater mangroves. It supports diverse wildlife, including crocodiles, wild horses, buffalo, and numerous native bird species like magpie geese, jacana, and jabiru. And I think we saw virtually all of what the billabong has to offer in that short two-hour boat ride. This was my second time there and I would do it again if I had the chance.
This morning the only mammals seen were the feral ones – feral hogs, feral horses, feral water buffalo… The bird fauna was outstanding too. See the pictures below for a glimpse of what can be seen during a short cruise on these extremely biodiverse billabongs. On the way out we did get some sightings of Agile Wallabies grazing in the morning mist.
Agile Wallaby (Notamacropus agilis agilis) Kakadu NP. It was interesting watching the wallaby cope with pavement. Clearly it felt very uncomforatble with the hard pavement underfoot.
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-throated Honeyeater (Melithreptus albogularis) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Eastern Great Egret (Subspecies Ardea alba modesta) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Masked Lapwing (Vanellus miles) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Australian Pelican (Pelecanus conspicillatus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Radjah Shelduck (Tadorna radjah) & Plumed Ducks - Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Australian Pelican (Pelecanus conspicillatus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Plumed Egret (Ardea plumifera) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorynchus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Australian Pied Cormorant (Phalacrocorax varius) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Plumed Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Australasian Swamphen (Porphyrio melanotus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Plumed Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Comb-crested Jacana (Irediparra gallinacea) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Australasian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Magpie Goose (Anseranas semipalmata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Nankeen Night Heron (Nycticorax caledonicus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Azure Kingfisher (Ceyx azureus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Black-necked Stork (Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Plumed Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Black-necked Stork (Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Cane Toad (Rhinella marina) Kakadu NP Visitor Center near Jabiru - Northern Territory. A more damaging invasive pest would be hard to find. Still working its way to Western Australia
Cane Toad (Rhinella marina) Kakadu NP Visitor Center near Jabiru - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong . The haze in the air was due to a distant brush fire that impacted the entire region.
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - Northern Territory
Giant Salvinia or Kariba Weed(Salvinia molesta) Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong - this invasive is everywhere!
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Mist over Yellow Water Billabong
Sunrise at Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Pandanus island at Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Kakadu NP, Yellow Water Billabong
Kakadu NP forest and termite towers
Termite tower giant in Kakadu
Pine Creek & Umbrawarra Gorge
Termite Towers on the road from Pine Creek to Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines
My next destination was Pine Creek, an outback town that is famous for birds mainly. For me it was a spot for me to try for the rarely seen Ghost Bat, a close relative our our local Greater and Lesser False Vampire Bats here in Thailand. The Ghost Bats are found in an old mine dug in to the side of a small hill on the outskirts of town. The entrance to the cave is actually very easy to find but it is completely signed off with all sorts of scary warnings (see the pic below). I was very disappointed as I had literally come this way so far south to get this species if for no other reason. I did see many endangered Hooded Parrots though if that is any consolation. The Pine Creek Water Park is a good spot for birds in general.
While I was there I decided to make the best of my being in this area so I decided to go further south to the Edith Falls area in search of Eastern Short-eared Rock Wallabies as well as some very remote chances of seeing the Gouldian Finches, the one bird species I would actually target. In fact I did target it as is obvious in my expedition planning notes which gives specific locations for four attempts for the bird. These locations however were all filled with plenty of water. The one thing I knew about the Gouldians is that they prefer small puddles of water over running water that fills the river and stream beds. Although I visited each site noted, I did not stay long as I knew it was a waste of time.
I did have three or for recommendations to get to Edith Falls however as people were convinced that they’d seen Rock Wallabies all over the place there. I was excited to hear that but at the same time I was very leary as I was convinced that these folks, as well-meaning as they were, had no idea the difference between a Rock Wallaby and an Agile Wallaby. Once I got on the Edith Falls road and the falls themselves, I saw Agile Wallabies all over the place – not one Rock Wallaby. Oh well, it was still an awesome drive and location. I did a bit of trekking and nature photography while there. On the way back I ventured about 60km round trip to see Umbrawarra Gorge for another attempt for Rock Wallabies. The gorge surely has a population of wallabies but they were just not showing. The gorge is stunning though – a gorgeous stream cutting through the canyon with a spectacular riparian floral habitat – filled with birds and surely mammals too. The entire place is spectacular and is far enough off the beaten path that I doubt it is rarely too full with humanity.
Now I had to head back north and pass through Pine Creek once again. While I was there I stopped at a local pub for an espresso mocha, and decided to ask the owner about the Ghost Bat mine. He laughed a bit and said that the signs were a bit over done to scare people away to protect the endangered species of bat inside. And that local reptile enthusiasts routinely entered past the sign barricade to collect cockroaches for their reptiles. While that was by no means heard to be permission to enter, I decided to give it a go. Same goes with this post - I am NOT suggesting to walk around the signs. Just reporting that there are Ghost Bats in that mine shaft and somehow I managed to see them.
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines. Note the mounds of guano. The bats are actually quite large - much larger than their cousins here in Thailand.
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines - Northern Territory
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines - Northern Territory
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines - Northern Territory
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines - Northern Territory
Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) Pine Creek Mines - Northern Territory
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Kakadu NP near Pine Creek
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Kakadu NP near Pine Creek
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Kakadu NP near Pine Creek
Hooded Parrot (Psephotellus dissimilis) Pine Creek - Northern Territory
Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis) Pine Creek
Hooded Parrot (Psephotellus dissimilis) Pine Creek - Northern Territory
Hooded Parrot (Psephotellus dissimilis) Pine Creek - Northern Territory Female
Little Friarbird (Philemon citreogularis) Pine Creek
Hooded Parrot (Psephotellus dissimilis) Pine Creek - Northern Territory
Hooded Parrot (Psephotellus dissimilis) Pine Creek - Northern Territory
Bar-shouldered Dove (Geopelia humeralis) Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park - Northern Territory
Sacred Kingfisher (Todiramphus sanctus) Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park - Northern Territory
White-throated Honeyeater (Melithreptus albogularis) Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park - Northern Territory
Little Friarbird (Philemon citreogularis) Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park - Northern Territory
Olive-backed Oriole (Oriolus sagittatus) Pine Creek - Northern Territory
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek - note the Kite searching for escaping animals
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Large bush fire north of Pine Creek
Pine Creek Waterworks Park
These are the warning signs for the Ghost Bat mine entrance.
Note the numerous Kites of both species searching for small animals escaping the flames. Black Kites are known to actually start fires for hunting small critters.
Edith Falls & Ferguson River
Edith Falls, in Australia's Nitmiluk National Park, features three distinct habitats: a sandstone escarpment, a riverine corridor with its permanent water sources, and open eucalypt woodland. These habitats support rich flora and fauna, including birds like the Gouldian Finch and Black Wallaroo, and are crucial for a variety of species, especially during the dry season when water sources become scarce.
Ferguson River at Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Ferguson River
Remants from a by-gone era
Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Still way too much water for the Gouldian Finches
Ferguson River
Wallaby tracks seen at Ferguson River
Several travelers told me that there were Rock Wallabies all over the Edith Falls Road. As soon as they said this, I doubted them and sure enough, they were Agile Wallabies (Notamacropus agilis agilis)
Peekaboo with a Striated Pardalote (Pardalotus striatus) Edith Falls Road
Litchfield National Park
August 8
Wangi Falls in Litchfield National Park
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Wangi Falls, Litchfield NP Northern Territory
Litchfield National Park, in Australia's Northern Territory, is a conservation reserve with diverse habitats, including monsoon rainforests, woodlands, and sandstone escarpments. The park is known for its permanent spring-fed waterfalls and unique geological formations, which create a range of environments for native plants and animals.
Habitats and geography include Sandstone plateau: The park is dominated by a central sandstone plateau, known as the Tabletop Range, which absorbs water during the wet season. This water is gradually released through springs, feeding the park's year-round creeks, waterfalls, and pools. Monsoon forests: Found in the gorges and near the park's waterfalls, these dense, vibrant forests thrive on the constant water supply from the springs. Woodlands: Covering much of the plateau, the woodlands consist mainly of eucalypts, like the Darwin woollybutt and stringybark, growing over a grassy understory. Magnetic termite mounds are a unique feature of the park. These massive, wedge-shaped mounds can stand up to two meters high. They are built by termites and are aligned north-south to minimize sun exposure and regulate internal temperature.
Litchfield National Park was a spot I missed back in 1996 when I came creating my ecotour company, La Selva Expeditions. I was not really planning on any major mammal watching while I in the park as I was going to be there only for an afternoon. I visited the following waterfalls: Florence Falls, Wangi Falls that did have an active Black Flying Fox colony and Tolmer Falls. These places were all extremely beautiful. I especially like the Termite Towers pullout which has hundreds of massive termite towers covering hundreds of acres of open grassland. The Black Flying Fox roost at Wangi Falls was a bonus.
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Wangi Falls, Litchfield NP - Northern Territory
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Wangi Falls, Litchfield NP - Northern Territory
Black Flying-fox (Pteropus alecto) Wangi Falls, Litchfield NP - Northern Territory
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Litchfield NP - Northern Territory
Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) Litchfield NP - Northern Territory
Wangi Falls
Florence Falls, Litchfield NP
Remnant Monsoon Forests in the canyons of Litchfield
Florence Falls
Wangi Falls
Turkey Bush or Kimberley Heather (Calytrix exstipulata) Wangi Falls, Litchfield NP -
Florence Falls
Florence Falls
Florence Falls
Florence Falls
Magnetic termite mounds: A unique feature of the park, these massive, wedge-shaped mounds can stand up to two meters high. They are built by termites and are aligned north-south to minimize sun exposure and regulate internal temperature.
Magnetic Termite Mound
Magnetic Termite Mounds
Magnetic Termite Mounds - hundreds in large fields throughout this region of Litchfield
Magnetic termite mounds
Darwin River
Definitely an honorary mammal - my Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) seen in a tiny puddle at Darwin River
My final destination before reaching Darwin city was a location that Brett Hartl sent me where he’d seen some Gouldian Finches in an area in Darwin River, a rural location south of Darwin city. Now he said that the location was basically a puddle of water that contained about 2 liters or drinking water that he’d replenished a few days before I was going to get there. I thought it was a long shot for sure but since it was literally right on my way back to Darwin and I was going to arrive at the golden hour of the day, I thought what the hell – give it a shot!
I am so glad I did give it a shot. Within about ten minutes I not only found the two liter puddle of water in the middle of the outback, I had numerous Gouldian Finches drinking less than two meters from me! And at least 10 other awesome bird species – mostly mannikins but also Rosellas and quails too! This spot made the overall lack of mammal sightings in the Northern Territory all the more palatable. See the pics below for a sample of what came in to that tiny puddle of water in the middle of nowhere!
The Gouldian Finch is a small, colourful Australian native bird with a natural history defined by a dramatic population decline due to habitat loss from altered fire regimes and cattle grazing, along with the historical impact of trapping for the pet trade. Now critically endangered, with fewer than 2,500 individuals remaining, they are restricted to isolated areas in the northern savannas of Australia. Their diet primarily consists of grass seeds, supplemented with insects during the wet season when they breed in the hollows of smooth-barked eucalyptus trees.
What started as a diversion for which I had very low expectations ended up being the best birding session of the entire expedition. Nearly 20 species of Australian endemics over a two hour period was outstanding. I am not sure how replicatable this experience could be. The puddle literally came out of two one-liter bottles of tap water simply poured in the dirt in an area that appeared to be a potentially busy trucking station in the middle of the Darwin River nowhere. As my session at the puddle ended, there was a parade of ATV’s coming through - not sure if this is a daily event or not. But considering this location is so close to Darwin may be encouraging. Are the Gouldians working their way back north where they were commonly seen years ago but not at all recently?
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus banksii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin (Lonchura castaneothorax) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
White-winged Triller (Lalage tricolor) Darwin River Area water puddle
Brown Honeyeater (Lichmera indistincta) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Crimson Finch (Neochmia phaeton) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Brown Quail (Synoicus ypsilophorus) Darwin River Area water puddle
Brown Quail (Synoicus ypsilophorus) Darwin River Area water puddle
Willie Wagtail (Rhipidura leucophrys) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Northern Rosella (Platycercus venustus) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Northern Rosella (Platycercus venustus) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Northern Rosella (Platycercus venustus) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Bar-shouldered Dove (Geopelia humeralis) Darwin River Area water puddle
Crimson Finch (Neochmia phaeton) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Crimson Finch (Neochmia phaeton) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Crimson Finch (Neochmia phaeton) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Crimson Finch (Neochmia phaeton) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin (Lonchura castaneothorax) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin (Lonchura castaneothorax) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin (Lonchura castaneothorax) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Masked Finch (Poephila personata) Darwin River Area water puddle
Masked Finch (Poephila personata) Darwin River Area water puddle
White-winged Triller (Lalage tricolor) Darwin River Area water puddle
Masked Finch (Poephila personata) Darwin River Area water puddle
White-throated Honeyeater (Melithreptus albogularis) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Masked Finch (Poephila personata) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Willie Wagtail (Rhipidura leucophrys) Darwin River Area - Northern Territory
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Masked Finch (Poephila personata) Darwin River Area water puddle
Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) Darwin River Area water puddle. Juvenile
Double-barred Finch (Taeniopygia bichenovii) Darwin River Area water puddle - Northern Territory
Darwin
I was overwhelmed with how much Darwin changed over the past 30 years. It seemed to go on forever and now it actually had somewhat of a skyline! I did spend a night in East Point Reserve with hopes of seeing Northern Common Brushtail Possums but aside from a bunch of Agile Wallabies, nothing else was seen. Next stop, Perth and Western Australia!
Agile Wallaby (Notamacropus agilis agilis) East Point Reserve Darwin - Northern Territory
Agile Wallaby (Notamacropus agilis agilis) Darwin - Northern Territory
My five-star accomodations at the Darwin Airport!
Aerial view of Darwin
View of Darwin from East Point across Fannie Bay
East Point Mangroves in Darwin
Great Pouched Critter Safari of 2025 Species List
Marsupialia
Macropodidae
1. Agile Wallaby (Notamacropus agilis agilis) NT
2. Eastern Short-eared Rock-Wallaby (Petrogale brachyotis) NT
Pseudocheiridae (Ringtail Possums)
3. Rock Ringtail Possum (Pseudochirops dahlii) NT
Bovidae
4. Water Buffalo (Bubalus bubalis) NT
Equidae
5. Feral Horse or Brumby (Equus caballus) NT
Suidae
6. Feral Pig (Sus scrofa) NT
Chiroptera
7. Black Flying Fox (Pteropus alecto) QLD, NT
8. Ghost Bat (Macroderma gigas) NT
9. Little Red Flying-fox (Pteropus scapulatus) NT
